But Not Today

UNUM’s But Not Today is named for that chilling moment in Silence of the Lambs when Dr. Hannibal Lecter sniffs Clarice Starling and leers, “You use Evian skin cream, and sometimes you wear L'Air du Temps, but not today”. But Not Today is UNUM’s scented capsule of the tension of that moment, where the pearly innocence of L’Air du Temps’ carnation and lily, as worn by the fresh-faced Clarice Starling, faces off against the depraved bloodlust of castoreum, blood, and metal knives slicing through air, as represented by Hannibal himself.

But Not Today’s bloodcurdling mix of sweet indoles with blood, dust, and metal makes for an unsettling but strangely beautiful wear. But Not Today would be a great choice for anyone who prefers smelling interesting to merely pretty. Past the animalic roar of the bloody leather at the start, the scent develops into a spicy-floral gourmand that combines the culinary herb-and-spice-rack of Italian perfumery with creamy white flowers, freshened with the peppery greenness of lily. The powdery carnation that emerges in the base gives the scent an alluring ‘old school’ vibe redolent of the spicy leather drydowns of Caron’s Tabac Blonde and En Avion. But Not Today is therefore that rare bird - possessed of both an avant-garde and retro character, but dominated by neither. But Not Today smells unique and doesn’t compare easily to other fragrances. However, if you love scents such as Eva Kant by O’Driu, Vierges et Toreros by Etat Libre d’Orange, and Noun by Bogue, cut with the retro spice powder of L’Air du Temps and Tabac Blond, then waste no time in getting your nose on But Not Today.